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Nestled among giant, monolithic red sandstone formations,
quirky Sedona, Arizona is evidence that utopia is indeed achievable. The
scenery is fantastic... the dining is superb... and the art galleries are
world-class... And the people of Sedona give their utopia its distinctly
peaceful and relaxed character. I left the kids behind and enjoyed a two-day
visit to this enigmatic place as part of a five-day solo sabbatical in early
December.
OVERVIEW
Roughly an hour-and-a-half drive north of Phoenix and
a half-hour south of Flagstaff, Sedona is not far from civilization...
although you may feel as though you’re in the middle of nowhere. This
rapidly growing small town (pop. ~11,000) still has no Wal-Mart nor 4-lane
highways and corporate icons are relatively unseen. There are no towering
signs, golden arches or electric line towers polluting your view of the
scenery. There are no giant neon lights, multi-story buildings nor tacky
paint jobs (except for the pink jeeps). The area’s earth tone buildings
blend harmoniously with their beautiful surroundings. The main drag, uptown
Sedona on Rt. 89A, is concentrated with shops, restaurants and art
galleries. The eight-mile stretch of Rt 179 south of Sedona to the Village
of Oak Creek has some of the best vantage points to view the scenery as well
as some of the larger shops and art galleries. Lodging is plentiful and
diverse... from intimate bed and breakfasts to huge resorts and everything
in between.
SCENERY
The area is not exactly desert, but not entirely green.
It’s best described as semi-arid. It’s generally not oppressively hot in the
summer (like Phoenix and Tucson) and the winters are relatively mild,
although they may get a little bit of snow. Sedona is located in the
Coconino National Forest. Although Coconino NF is known for its groves of
majestic Ponderosa pines in the Flagstaff area, the Red Rocks region (i.e.
Sedona) is predominately juniper. You’ll also see agave, prickly pear cactus
and other interesting plants. The saguaro is not native to this area. Most
of the trees do not grow to an appreciable height, so combined with the
extreme relief of the red rock formations, your view of the scenery is
rarely obstructed by the foliage. It is not necessary to seek out scenic
views, Sedona visitors are totally immersed in scenery. That being said...
I’d like to offer these three outstanding peaceful vantage points from which
you can quietly absorb your stunning surroundings...
(1) The Chapel of the Holy Cross is located
about four miles south of Sedona just off Rt. 179. A clearly marked
mile-long uphill road leads visitors to this pretty place. This Catholic
chapel was built right into the red rocks with no visible excavation. Simple
in design, this stunning structure was completed in 1956. The facade facing
the valley below is simply a huge stone cross framed by the chapel’s stone
structure. The road leading to the chapel passes below the chapel before it
curves up to the parking area. A small parking area below the chapel allows
visitors to stop and view (and photograph) the chapel from below. Cars,
visitors and other clutter are not visible from this vantage point. Upon
parking, a curving beautifully-landscaped walkway leads visitors to the
chapel’s entrance. The chapel’s cavernous interior is beautiful and
peaceful. It is dimly lit with well-known hymns playing in the background.
Behind the beautiful altar is a gigantic picture window affording views of
the scenery below.
(2) Schnebly Hill Road is a rugged unpaved road which
extends 17 miles from Sedona east across the mountains to I-17. It is paved
for about a mile east of Sedona. A parking area at the end of the paved
portion of Schnebly Hill Road is a great vantage point to watch the
sunrise over the red rocks and the town below. It was my intention to
drive the entire 17-mile stretch of Schnebly Hill Road, but after about a
mile on the extremely rough unpaved road... I decided against it out of fear
I’d blow a tire or damage my rented Nissan Sentra. (Note to self: Don’t
ever buy a car that was once a rental vehicle in Arizona.) If you have
good tires, heavy-duty shocks and a powerful SUV, then you should be OK.
Everything I have read says that it’s a beautiful drive, but I wouldn’t
recommend the entire Schnebly Hill Road drive for the family truckster.
(3) Airport Road intersects with Rt. 89A about
a mile west of Uptown Sedona on the way to West Sedona. About a mile uphill
on airport road, there is a parking area on the left. From there, you can
see West Sedona and the surrounding red rocks. A short, but steep hike will
take you to a "saddle" between the formations. From there, you can see all
of Sedona from the west. This is on the opposite side of Sedona from the
Schnebly Hill vantage point and is a great place to watch the sunset.
Coincidently (or not), this is the site of one of the five (and most easily
accessible) energy vortices said to exist in the Sedona area.
SPIRITUALITY
Sedona’s scenery, climate and energy vortices have
transformed this area into a mecca for those who wish to explore their
souls, become closer to their god or "become one with nature". Businesses
catering to metaphysical and New Age spirituality are abundant. There are
spiritual retreat resorts, psychics, vortex tours and plenty of new age
shops. The Center for the New Age is a large shop which also offer psychic
readings, aura photography and information of the area’s energy vortices.
They also have a huge selection of quality spiritualist symbols and
paraphernalia like crystals, magnets, pyramids, Buddhas, crystal wands and
dragons. I was impressed by their huge selection of quality incense. The
Center for the New Age is located just south of the intersection of Routes
89A and 179, across the road from the Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village.
It is a good place to find out a little bit about Sedona’s metaphysical
aspects... although one may get the sense that they are exploiting
stereotypes of these belief systems in a quest for the almighty tourist
dollar... much like the sale of voodoo dolls in New Orleans or feathered
Native American headdresses at the trading posts. If you’re looking for
something more "authentic", stop at the Crystal Castle... right next door to
the Center for the New Age. It’s smaller and less slick, but their selection
of books and items seemed to indicate that they cater as much to the
practicing spiritualist as to the tourist. Despite the attention given to
the New Age, Sedona is home to a wide spectrum of faiths, including many
Christian denominations, as indicated by the Chapel of the Holy Cross and
other houses of worship.
ENERGY VORTICES
In the nether-region between conventional science and
metaphysics lies some actual plausible theory as to the existence and nature
of energy vortices, so I would caution naysayers to dismiss the concept
outright as a bunch of mystical hooey. Vortices are described in a variety
of ways, depending on whose literature you are reading. Here’s my best brief
description... An energy vortex is an invisible funnel shape created by
spiraling energy. Although these vortices are linked to the earth’s magnetic
and electrical fields, the energy is not exactly magnetic nor electrical
(however nobody seems to be able to say what type of energy it actually IS).
The energy from the vortices resonates with the subtle energy operating in
our bodies/spirits. Those who are sensitive to this energy are said to be
both spiritually and physically invigorated, often for several days. The
energy of each vortex is strongest at its center, but radiates for a quarter
to a half mile. Sedona is said to be home of four of these vortices. Of
course, I had to check out a vortex for myself. So I stopped at the Center
for the New Age and picked up my free vortex map. I asked for the location
of the closest and most easily accessible vortex. As it turns out, all four
of the area’s vortices are fairly easy to get to by vehicle and a short
hike. I was directed to the Airport Vortex, about two miles away. I hiked up
the short trail to the saddle between two rock formations to the spot where
the vortex was said to be centered. Alas, I experienced nothing more than
the realization that I had to go to the bathroom... but hey... maybe there
was a cause-and-effect relationship with the vortex.
PINK JEEP TOURS
One does not need to be in Sedona for long before
noticing the omnipresent pink jeeps. Although the pink color clashes
hideously with its earth tone surroundings, it’s a great marketing tactic.
Operating since 1958, they claim to be the longest continually operating
tour company in the United States. I is clear that safety is paramount. Each
of the 66 jeeps has been fitted with a five-figure retooling to accommodate
the passengers and the rugged terrain. Their heavy-duty off-road tires are
changed annually and they are continually retraining and refreshing the
drivers to the constantly eroding and changing trails. Each pink jeep takes
a group of up to 6 or 7 along off-road trails that are nowhere near passable
by ordinary 4-wheel drive vehicles. Several tours ranging from 2 to 4 hours
are offered. Each tour features a particular aspect of the area... but all
of the tours will give you a healthy dose of beautiful scenery, information
about the areas ancient cultures, geology and biology. I took the most
popular tour, the Broken Arrow tour. It was in the lower 50s and overcast in
early December. For the sake of scenery, I was disappointed that there
wasn’t much sunshine during my tour, but I think I prefer this over a 95
degree scorcher. Susan, our driver and guide, was very friendly and
informative. She pointed out the different plants, the names of the rocks
(my favorite name: "Old Fashioned Movie Camera Rock") as well as the area’s
history. There was no question she couldn’t answer. The ride was quite bumpy
at times, and extremely bumpy two or three times. We drove down the aptly
named "Road of No Return", a short stretch of bumpy, rocky road down a 30 or
40 degree grade... exhilarating! The rough road is not suitable for very
small children or those with major health issues or difficulty walking, but
you don’t have to be in great shape either. You just need to be able to get
up and down the jeep’s steep steps and to brace yourself on the bumpy parts.
The tours depart from near their office in uptown Sedona. In many instances,
they will pick you up at your hotel. It isn’t cheap. The 2-hour Broken Arrow
tour is $72 for adults and $54 for kids 12 and under. They also offer
day-long tours to the Grand Canyon. They offer tours year-round. If the
price is not prohibitive, I recommend a Pink Jeep Tour as a great
introduction to the area.
ART GALLERIES / SHOPPING
Sedona is home to many world-class art galleries... GOOD
ones. A few of the galleries feature southwestern art, but the whole
spectrum of artistic styles and media is represented. The largest and most
prestigious galleries are located just south of the 89A/179 intersection.
Unique shopping opportunities are abundant, but just about everyplace is
quite expensive. Here are a few of the best galleries and shops that I
visited...
The Exposures Gallery is Sedona’s largest and most
expensive (presumably and hopefully). This enormous, colorful gallery is
stuffed full of stunningly beautiful paintings and sculpture. Even those
with no interest in are sure to be impressed by this modern palatial fantasy
land. When I entered, one of the many impeccably-dressed staff greeted me
immediately. She was friendly and cordial, but slightly patronizing... for
we both knew instantly that I wouldn’t be purchasing anything. I felt wildly
out of place in my jeans, ball cap and sneakers, but I was mesmerized by my
surroundings. I perused the gallery, checking out the endless gorgeous fine
art. I couldn’t afford any of the pieces and neither can you. I saw
sculptures priced as high as $55,000... but it’s likely that they have some
pieces with even higher price tags. The least expensive items that I
encountered were $3000-4000. Photography is not allowed in the Exposures
Gallery.
Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village is located in a
pretty little wooded area along Oak Creek. Tlaquepaque (tuh-LAH-kuh-PAH-kee)
is fashioned after an old Mexican/Southwestern village... with abundant
arches, pillars, staircases, balconies and vine covered walls. The
architecture and landscaping alone are worth a visit. The quaint little
village has 18 art galleries as well as five restaurants and several
clothing stores, jewelry stores and gift shops. Tlaquepaque is still
upscale, but I felt quite comfortable in my ultra-casual attire. Built in
the early seventies, Tlaquepaque is credited as being the catalyst for
Sedona’s distinction as a premium fine arts community.
The Shops at Pinon Pointe are located on a hill at
the 89A/179 intersection within the Hyatt Vacation Club. This shopping area
contains numerous small art galleries and shops. The buildings are compact
and modern-looking. It is well landscaped with plenty of outdoor sculptures,
fountains and plaques containing local history.
Uptown Sedona has plenty of small shops along the
main drag (89A). It is here you can buy t-shirts, inexpensive jewelry, shot
classes, refrigerator magnets and other touristy souvenirs and gifts for the
family back home.
And one more... On the south side of Sedona, just south
of the big art galleries, is a huge store called Silver Son West.
Billing itself as "the finest western and traditional art", I was more
impressed by their selection of unusual items, and the owner’s extensive
collection of antique road signs and advertising icons along the parking
lot. Unlike most of the other Sedona shops and art galleries, Silver Son
West is decidedly rustic. They have a very eclectic selection of items for
sale including southwestern pottery and lawn ornaments, decorations made
from dried peppers, relatively inexpensive jewelry, cacti and desert plants,
incense of the west, antique firearms and tons more. The parking lot is
surrounded by dozens and dozens of old signs. For example, you’ll see Route
66 road signs, Coca-Cola signs, American Oil gasoline signs, a Western Union
telegraph sign, a "we give green stamps" sign and a 6-foot-tall fiberglass
big-headed Big Boy holding up a tray with a giant hamburger. Silver Son West
is the closest thing Sedona has to a kitschy tourist trap and is
uncharacteristic of the area, but they do it with flair and pizzazz.
LODGING
Again, lodging is plentiful and diverse. Whether you
prefer a tent, RV, budget motel, mid-scale hotel, bed & breakfast, luxury
hotel or spa & resort, Sedona has it all. I stayed at the Hilton Sedona
Resort & Spa about 8 miles south of Sedona in the Village of Oak Creek. My
suite had a fireplace, wet bar, microwave, balcony, a big soft bed with five
big, fluffy pillows and many other comfortable amenities. The hotel is home
to a championship golf course and pro shop, driving range and putting green,
two very nice outdoor heated pools and whirlpools, available massage
services and an upscale restaurant. Even though the evening air was quite
cool (40s?), I couldn’t wait to take a dip in the outdoor heated pool and
soak in the whirlpool just to tell my snowed-in Ohio friends that I did. I
wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Hilton Sedona Resort & Spa, but lodging
options are plentiful.
DINING
I had three outstanding dining experiences at the three
Sedona restaurants where I dined. So, unless I was incredibly lucky, I can
say without reservation that Sedona has a wealth of fine restaurants. All
three of these restaurants fit my definition of "fine dining" Expect your
total bill to come to $30, $40, $50 or more per person. I will possibly
write a more detailed review of each of these restaurants in the future.
The Cowboy Club is located on 89A near the
oft-mentioned 89A/179 intersection. Yes, they feature a variety of beef and
buffalo steaks, but don’t let the name "Cowboy Club" fool you. I experienced
their luxurious Silver Saddle Dining Room. Make no mistake, this is fine
dining. My server, Melissa was friendly and personal, yet very professional.
There was no waiting between courses. The plate presentation and food
appearance was magnificent and the atmosphere was relaxed and warm. As for
the food... I was immediately presented with a small tasty appetizer of game
hen and mushroom ragu over a puff pastry. Delicioso! I ordered an Oak Creek
Nut Brown Beer and munched on my bread as they prepared my appetizer. The
bread included pumpkin bread, hot moist corn bread and chewy "cowboy bread".
They gave me two types of butter for my bread... sage & garlic and regular
roast. My appetizer sampler consisted of skewered rattlesnake, buffalo
skewers, cactus fries and native American cilantro flatbread. After I
completed the final morsel of my appetizer, Melissa brought me a scoop of
lemon sorbet to "cleanse my palate". My entree was braised lamb shank (i.e.
leg of lamb). The incredibly tender meat was perfectly complemented by the
red wine sauce in which it was cooked. I finished every bite including the
accompanying garlic mashed potatoes and roasted veggies. The vanilla bean
creme brulee was a perfect ending to a great meal and dining experience. The
Cowboy Club has quite an extensive menu. In addition to steaks and lamb,
they have duck, buffalo and other game.
Bice Grand Café is perched on a hill in Hyatt’s Shops
at Pinon Pointe. The dining room is very modern-looking and is adorned with
art and plants. A giant east-facing picture window affords a great view of
Sedona and the red rocks. I had an early lunch and it wasn’t busy at all.
The service was attentive. I had a great beef carpaccio appetizer and a
lobster ravioli entree. And for dessert... another creme brulee... just as
delicious as the night before. Bice Grand Café has a diverse menu including
steaks and seafood, but they are known for their pastas and gnocchi (potato
dumplings). This is also where I had the glass of wine which may have
contributed to my vortex experience.
Heartline Café is located in West Sedona, about two
miles west of the landmark 89A/179 intersection. This warm, intimate
restaurant has a quiet, peaceful, old-fashioned dining room. The flower
designs on the plates are reminiscent of Great Grandma’s good holiday china.
Every one of their entrees is considered a specialty. The name "Heartline
Café" and many of their menu choices hint at a focus on healthy dining. They
offer several pasta and vegetarian selections, several seafood selections,
chicken, duck and pork. Meat and potato lovers are not left out though. They
also have pan-seared ribeye steaks and char-grilled beef tenderloin. I had
the pecan crusted trout... highly recommended for those who enjoy freshwater
fish. You’ll receive a huge filet (head and tail removed), covered in a
thick brown sauce with crushed pecans. And yes, they do offer creme brulee... but I
didn't have room for dessert.
I am certain that these three great dining experiences
are representative of Sedona as a whole. I didn’t see many chain restaurants
or fast food joints... just one Burger King. Like everything else in Sedona,
the nicer restaurants are pricey.
IN CONCLUSION
Sedona is a stunningly beautiful, quirky and unusual
place. It is probably more attractive for adults than children. Sedona is
active year-round. I visited in December and it wasn’t crowded, but I
imagine that parking and crowds may be an issue during the spring and summer
months. Just about all of the Sedonans I encountered were transplanted from
somewhere else. I met people who were originally from Pennsylvania, New
York, my native Ohio, California... even Alaska. They come from diverse
backgrounds, but they all seemed to be attracted to Sedona’s beauty,
serenity and laid-back environment. I was told that it is difficult to make
a living in Sedona... competition for the tourist dollar is fierce. That
translates into top quality treatment for Sedona’s visitors. Nothing is done
half-assed. The restaurants, tour guides, art galleries, shops and other
attractions are all top-notch. Nothing is cheap, either. Be prepared to
spend. That being said... I would argue that a 3-day stay in Sedona is much
more relaxing, rewarding and memorable than a 5-day stay at an average
destination. So if you are going to splurge, this is the place to do it...
just don’t forget to use the bathroom before visiting your first vortex.
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