Niagara Falls and the Grand Canyon are
breathtaking... Yellowstone, Glacier and Yosemite National Parks have high
concentrations of amazing natural scenery... but little can compare with the
sensory and spiritual blitz one experiences when viewing Crater Lake early
on a crisp, sunny summer morning.Overview:
The lake is situated in a remote area in southwest Oregon. A volcano
called Mount Mazama blew its top off about 7700 years ago in an explosion
that made Mt. St. Helens look like a firecracker. Over time, the resulting
6-mile wide caldera filled with rain and melted snow. At its deepest point,
Crater Lake is 1943 feet deep, making it the deepest lake in the U.S. and
one of the deepest in the world. The lake’s depth combined with the water’s
clarity lends to Crater Lake’s signature intense blue color. Dramatic cliffs
nearly a half-mile tall extend from the water’s surface to the crater’s rim.
Wizard Island, Crater Lake’s only significant island, is actually a volcano
within a volcano. The conical island is visible from all vantage points
along the rim. Forgive me for employing a tired cliche, but photographs and
video do not do Crater Lake the justice it deserves. The scene must be
experienced. My daughters (11 & 13) and I were very fortunate to have
visited on a clear sunny late-June morning.
Arriving from Grants Pass, Oregon, we entered Crater Lake National Park
through the east entrance (Oregon State Route 62). We drove about 10-15
miles of scenic, but relatively unspectacular paved roadway to get to the
crater’s rim. We saw a few deer on the way. Although we visited in late-June
, there were huge snowbanks that had to be sculpted away to allow traffic to
pass near the rim. A 33-mile long roadway (Rim Drive) with plentiful parking
areas and scenic viewpoints circles the crater. I was disappointed to
discover that Rim Drive was closed along the east side of the lake due to
deep snow. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the numerous vantage points on east Rim
Drive between the Crater Lake Lodge and North Junction. Our first stop was
the Rim Village area where we witnessed our first spectacular view at about
6:00 AM. The Rim Village Visitor Center was closed, but we walked a bit down
a paved trail behind the Visitor Center to the Sinnott Memorial Overlook.
Although there aren’t any bad places to view the lake, this trail offers a
somewhat more panoramic view than other overlooks. The early morning sun
cast dramatic shadows upon the rim’s rocky cliffs. The lake’s calm water
provided a stunning mirror reflection of the blue sky and Wizard Island.
Since it was so early, we encountered very few other people. There was no
extraneous noise from chatter or vehicles. Our view of the lake was enhanced
by singing birds and a gentle breeze. The only negative... We were
relentlessly attacked by very persistent mosquitoes the size of
hummingbirds. They took enough blood to supply a trauma ward for a week and
left welts the size of Hershey kisses. If you visit early in the day, an
effective insect repellant is advised. A more serious caution... Most of
the scenic overlooks are located right on the crater’s rim. The volcanic
rock can be unstable. Heed the warnings and stay behind the walls and fences
where they exist and keep an eye on the young’uns. This park has had its
share of tragedies.
Visitors Centers:
The park has two visitor centers. The aforementioned Rim Village Visitor
Center is located about 1/10 of a mile from the Crater Lake Lodge. It is
small, but is actually located on the rim and thus, the lake is visible from
there. This visitor center is located near the cafeteria (only dining
facilities in the park) and gift shop. The Rim Village Visitor Center is
only open during the summer (June - Sept.). The Steel Visitor Center is
located down the mountain about three miles south of Rim Village. It is
larger, is open year-round and serves as the park headquarters, but is in a
far less scenic location.
Crater Lake Lodge:
This beautiful, rustic stone and wood building was constructed in 1915
and fits in nicely with the scenery. It has 71 guest rooms on 4 floors. We
stopped in to use their facilities, so I took a quick look around. The
floors, ceilings and walls are natural wood. There are several huge stone
fireplaces. The lobby is gorgeous, with rustic, yet elegant decor. The north
side of the lobby has gigantic picture windows providing lake views. The
rates actually appear quite reasonable for this type of lodging... from $129
to $248 per night, depending on room type and view.
Camping:
Crater Lake National Park has only two campgrounds. The Mazama Campground
os open June through October. It has 200 spaces with no hookups. The small
Lost Creek Campground is tents-only. Neither campground has a view of the
lake.
Hiking and Boat Tours:
The park has about 90 miles of hiking trails from mild to strenuous, but
again, most don’t provide a lake view. One exception is the Cleetwood Trail.
Located on the lake’s north side, the Cleetwood Trail is the only trail
located on the inside of the rim and provides the only access to the
lakeshore. It is a mile long (one-way) and has a 700-foot change in
elevation, so it is quite strenuous. There is a boat dock at the bottom of
the trail. 2-hour narrated tours depart hourly from 10 to 4 from late June -
September. Fare is $19.25 for adults and $11.50 for kids 12 and under. The
tour stops at Wizard Island, which has a trail to its summit. We arrived too
early and didn’t budget enough time to take the boat tour, but it seems it
would be very enjoyable for those who are willing and able to hike back up
the trail.
Limited Accessibility:
Crater Lake National Park receives an incredible amount of snowfall... an
average of 44 feet per year. Consequently, there is a very narrow window of
time when all of the park’s roads and facilities are open and accessible...
usually early July through early September (or the first heavy snowfall). To
see the lake, it is crucial to access Rim Drive. Part of Rim Drive was
closed during our late-June visit. Sometimes none of it is open until early
July. If you want to know if Rim Drive is open or have any other questions
about the park, you may call the park information phone number... (541)
594-3100.
Pumice Desert:
The Pumice Desert is a weird little area located on the park’s north
road. It’s an unusual bare area bordered by a pine forest. By definition,
it’s not an actual "desert"... since it gets several feet of snow each year.
The sharp volcanic rock in this area permits only sparse vegetation. We
didn’t stop, but the stark change in scenery was striking as we passed
through this mile or so of unusual terrain.
Summary:
At this National Park, the lake view is definitely the "star of the
show". The thing is... there’s not much more to do in the park other than
look at the lake. And due to the unusual topography, most of the other
things to see and do are not within view of the lake. Nevertheless, Crater
Lake is overwhelmingly and indescribably beautiful. As I’m sure others will
corroborate, Crater Lake must be seen and experienced to be fully
appreciated. It is certainly worth driving out of your way just to take in
this astonishing sight.
About an hour and a half north of Crater Lake N.P. is the Bend, Oregon
area. There are no single views as amazing as Crater Lake, but the scenery
is still spectacular... and the activities extend beyond scenery and are
much more family-friendly. Oh... one more thing... I may have exaggerated a
little about the size of the Crater Lake mosquitoes... Maybe the slight
nuisance seemed more profound in the presence of this natural splendor.