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This lovely park in the lower Florida Keys is a
photographer’s nirvana... bursting with picture post card views.
Quintessential Florida scenery abounds... healthy palm trees gently rustling
in the fresh sea breeze against a backdrop of white sand, turquoise water
and a cloudless sky.
Bahia Honda State Park occupies most of the land
on tiny Bahia Honda Key, about 30-35 miles east of Key West. The park
is 524 acres. The entire island is roughly 600 acres. It is known primarily
for its scenery and beaches. But beyond the scenery, the park has much to
offer. It is active and well-managed. It has many available activities...
camping (RV, tent and cabins), guided snorkeling, scuba diving, picnicking,
swimming, guided walks and short, but informative nature trails. The park
also has a nature center, boat ramp, marina, equipment rental center
(presumably for fishing and snorkeling), snack bar and gift shop.
Perspective
Our group of five adults visited this park on Monday,
January 31, 2005. 24 hours before our visit, we drove 4 hours at 35-40 mph
through a nasty snowstorm to reach the Pittsburgh airport, where we boarded
our plane destined for our sub-tropical paradise. Although I am an
experienced traveler, all of my long-distance travel had previously been
during the summer. This was the first time my friends and I had ever left a
cold Ohio winter in favor of a warmer climate... so we were eager to spend a
day at the beach. We were quite pleased to visit this park on a cloudless
80-degree January day.
Beaches
The three Bahia Honda beaches have some outstanding
qualities and some very negative ones. All of the beaches are extremely
narrow. They all have a very narrow band of sand (15-20 feet at high tide)
between the high coarse grass and the ocean. Secondly, they all have an
unsightly 3-4 foot wide band of seaweed and debris. Although, the seaweed
may be aesthetically displeasing, it doesn’t emit a foul odor, as one might
suspect upon first seeing it. Finally, the water at these beaches is
typically very gentle. Usually, there are no waves or just small waves... no
white water.
The smallest of the three beaches is Calusa Beach.
It is a very tiny beach facing a US1 bridge. We tried this beach first, but
did not stay long. One enterprising member of our group decided to acclimate
himself to the cold January water by running full-blast into the water.
Unfortunately, he didn’t realize that the sandy beach bottom quickly turns
to jagged rock just a few feet into the water. He didn’t withstand any
lingering injury, but his plaintive wails indicated that the sharp rock on
his feet, combined with the cold salt water made for a most unpleasant
experience. The water at Calusa Beach is perfectly calm, so this is a good
beach for families with young children. Calusa Beach has a bathhouse with
outdoor fresh water showers and several small picnic shelters.
Although we didn’t go there, Loggerhead Beach is
another relatively small beach area and is located on the south (Atlantic)
side of the island, opposite of Calusa Beach. The shallow Loggerhead Beach
is known for its shallow sand bar just a offshore.
I had read that Bahia Honda State Park was once home to
the second-best beach in North America. Since Calusa Beach was obviously not
within the top 100... or 200..., I knew something was amiss. Therefore, I
took a look at the park map and realized we had turned right when we should
have turned left. We took a 10-minute drive (15 mph) to the east end of the
island and discovered Sandspur Beach. As it turns out, Bahia Honda’s
Sandspur Beach was once named the second best beach in North America (source
unknown), and in 1992, Dr. Stephen Leatherman, professor and director of the
International Hurricane Center at FLORIDA International University named
Sandspur Beach the best beach in the United States and they have posted a
sign as a testament to this honor. Mild sarcasm aside... Sandspur Beach is
quite pleasant. It’s the biggest and nicest beach in the park, but it falls
short of the accolades you may read about elsewhere.
Sandspur Beach is very long and very skinny. It’s about 2
or 2½ miles long, but as mentioned, the actual sand beach is extremely
narrow. Just one row of visitors lines the beach. Nobody can be in front of
or behind anyone else. Aside from the ever-present seaweed band, the beach
is quite beautiful. Don’t bring your surfboard or boogie board, the water is
very calm under typical conditions. The best thing about Sandspur Beach is
its extremely gradual grade, with no dropoffs at all. The water remains
shallow for hundreds of feet. You can walk WAAAY out from shore and still
touch bottom. And best of all, the firm sandy bottom is pleasant upon the
feet and the water is very clear. You can see your feet when the water is up
to your neck. Since it’s so calm and shallow, this beach would be ideal for
families with toddlers or small children. In January, the water is kinda
cold. There weren’t too many swimmers, but we Ohioans couldn’t wait to jump
in. Yeah, the water was cold, but when I totally submerged myself, it took
just a few seconds to become comfortable with the water. (reminder... this
is in January). The beach wasn’t crowded and it wasn’t hard to find a place
to lay our towels. The Sandspur Beach area has three large picnic shelters
and a bathhouse with outdoor fresh water showers. This beach is very scenic,
but some may be turned off by the seaweed mounds, narrow beach area and lack
of any surf.
Nature Trails
The park has two short, easily-negotiated nature trails.
I walked the Silver Palm Trail on the island’s east end near Sandspur
Beach. Brochures are available at the trailhead. The well-labeled trail
winds through dense, sub-tropical foliage as well as a saltwater lagoon.
Snorkeling
There are a few good snorkeling areas just a few hundred
feet from shore. The park also offers daily snorkeling tours to the nearby
Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary, a spectacular coral reef teeming
with sea creatures. The trip takes about 45 min. to an hour each way and
they allow about 1 ½ hours of snorkeling time. Tours are $28 for adults and
$23 for kids. Equipment rental is $6 extra per person. Equipment rental is
also available for those who would just like to snorkel off the island’s
shores.
Fishing
The park boasts several good fishing areas. The most
popular area seems to be on the western end of the island near the old Bahia
Honda Bridge, where anglers reel in snapper and grouper. The Atlantic side
of the park is popular with fly fishermen who catch, barracuda and bonefish.
Florida short-term fishing licenses are relatively inexpensive and are
available at any bait and tackle shop. One of the closest tackle shops to
Bahia Honda is Reef Light Tackle on the West end of Big Pine Key, about 6-8
miles west of the park.
Camping
The park has 3 air-conditioned duplex cabins and 3 small
campgrounds with a total of 80 campsites, some sites are on the waterfront.
Buttonwood Campground is the largest. It can accommodate tents as well as
large RV’s. Each site has an electric and water hookup, picnic table and a
grill. Sandspur Campground has electric and water hookups, picnic tables and
grills. It can only accommodate tents and small pop-ups. Bayside Campground
is the smallest, with 8 sites and no electric. These campgrounds are
extremely popular. For the cabins, reservations are necessary 11 months in
advance. Although they save a few sites for last-minute guests, these sites
go quickly and reservations should be made well in advance (perhaps months).
Cabins are $120 per night. All camping is $26 per night. To reserve a cabin
or a campsite, call 1-800-326-3521 or go to www.reserveamerica.com.
Photography
The entire island is quite scenic, but I believe the
prettiest and most photogenic spot is on the west tip of the island. Palm
trees are plentiful, there is a bit of rolling terrain and the old Bahia
Honda Bridge provides an interesting and historical backdrop.
Fees, Hours, Etc.
Entrance fees are $2.50 each for the first two persons in
your group... 50 cents for each additional person. The park is open from 8
AM to sunset. Buildings are open from 8 AM to 5 PM.
It came a surprise to learn that the Florida Keys has
very few beaches, so if a day at the beach is on your Florida Keys
itinerary, then this is probably the best that the Keys has to offer. Again,
we had a very enjoyable time... just don’t expect Malibu, Daytona or
Copacabana. This scenic park provides a pleasant and peaceful Florida Keys
experience.
Bahia Honda State Park
36850 Overseas Hwy.
Big Pine Key, FL 33043
(305) 872-3210
Bahia Honda State Park Website:
www.floridastateparks.org/bahiahonda
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